Chances are you’ve heard the term "sebum" related to oily skin and acne before, but do you have any idea what it actually is? Many believe sebum to be interchangeable with oil, but that’s not the case. Sebum plays a very important part in the health of your skin whereas oil is made up of sebum, but also dirt, sweat, and dust-like particles that float around in the air.

Sebum is secreted from your sebaceous glands, which are each attached to a hair follicle. Each gland produces lipids that eventually erupt causing sebum to lubricate your hair follicles and find its way onto your skin. You’re born with sebaceous glands all over your body, with the exception of your palms, feet, and lower lip.

Your hormones and genetics determine the amount of sebum your skin produces – too much can lead to over oily and acneic skin, and too little results in overly dry, irritated skin. Here, we dissect what sebum is made of, it’s purpose on your skin, and what happens if your skin produces too much or too little of it.

What is sebum made of?

Now that you understand the basic role of sebum in skincare, let’s get down to the nitty gritty. The yellow oily substance is made up mostly by triglycerides (a type of fat lipid found in your blood) and fatty acids. It also contains wax, squalene (a poly-unsaturated hydrocarbon liquid), and cholesterol. This specific combination of lipids work together to provide your skin all the benefits sebum produces including hydration.

What is the purpose of sebum?

Sebum helps to keep your skin in optimal health. Its main goal is to help seal moisture into your skin. Scientists have been studying the substance and its role in skincare for years, and believe it also has antibacterial and antifungal properties. It even offers some protection against ultraviolet (UV) rays – not enough to skip your sunscreen though!

What happens if you have too much sebum?

Balancing sebum production can be tricky. When you hit puberty your sebum production can increase up to 500 percent! (Hello, acne!) Look to your parents and siblings. Do they have oily or acneic skin? If they don’t now, did they growing up? If your answer to one of these questions is yes, then chances are you will too. People who have skin that over produces sebum can experience oily skin and acne.

Of course, there are a few tried-and-true solutions to combat oily, acneic skin, and balance your sebum production.

  • Avoid foods high in saturated fats like cheese, red meat, and butter to help reduce oil production. They’re associated with high concentrations of insulin growth factor, which stimulates the production of your hormones causing oily skin and acne.

  • Try over-the-counter acne products like one of these Proactiv systems. The products work in conjunction to help keep your skin clear and balanced.

  • Consult your dermatologist to guide you in using the right skincare regimen for your skin type.

What happens if your skin produces too little sebum?

On the contrary, your sebaceous glands naturally produce less sebum with age, leaving your skin dry, flaky, and chapped. Again, you can look to your parents to find out if you may be culprit to this type of irritation caused by lack of sebum. Good news is, there are a few lifestyle changes you can make to help balance it out and lock in hydration.

  • Avoid fragrances, alcohols, and acids in your skincare and haircare as they tend to be very drying.
  • Opt for products made for sensitive skin.
  • Take lukewarm showers instead of hot. Your relaxing 10-minute shower in hot water strips oils from your skin leaving it dry.
  • Drink lots and lots of water!
  • Make sure healthy fats like nuts and avocado are part of most meals.
  • Consult a doctor to explore a possible hormone imbalance.

The takeaway

When it comes to skincare, sebum plays a huge role in your health. You can typically use lotions, creams, or other topicals to help treat the symptoms associated with too much or too little sebum, but sometimes it’s important to consult your doctor and/or dermatologist for help. Remember, skincare takes time to work so don’t expect a miraculous balance overnight.